Watches & Wonders 2026 begins on April 14th. With 65 brands and an estimated 55,000+ visitors, it's the biggest one yet.
Trilogy's Frankie Mardell is in Geneva right now, keeping us in the loop with the latest innovations in design and technology from the brands we're most excited about.
Keep this page open in your browser to get updated brand coverage as the week unfolds. Your first look into the future of watches is here.
If you were expecting a repeat of last year's fireworks, this is not that year.
In 2025, Rolex dropped the Land-Dweller: an entirely new collection for the first time in over a decade, powered by the Calibre 7135 Dynapulse, a movement that genuinely rewrote the rules. It was bold. It was divisive. It was the kind of release that dominates conversation for twelve months straight.
2026 is quieter. Deliberately so. The theme is "Oyster Story," celebrating 100 years of the Oyster case, and Rolex has leaned into that anniversary with a collection of refinements, material plays and heritage nods rather than anything seismic. No new collections. No revolutionary calibres. No Coke GMT. No Milgauss comeback. If you had money on either of those, you'll have to roll it over to 2027.
Here's what actually landed.
Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 126502: Rolesium with Enamel Dial
The standout piece of the 2026 collection is a Daytona in Rolesium. That term matters: Rolesium is Rolex's proprietary combination of Oystersteel and platinum, previously exclusive to the Yacht-Master collection since 1999. Bringing it to the Daytona is a genuine first, and it places this chronograph in a very interesting space between the full steel model and the precious metal references.
The bezel is Cerachrom in anthracite grey, a marked departure from the black ceramic bezel on the steel Daytona, and it gives the watch a more muted, sophisticated character. The enamel dial elevates things further. Enamel is a painstaking process, notoriously difficult to execute at scale, and its appearance on a Daytona signals that Rolex is willing to push the chronograph's finishing into territory normally reserved for dress watches. The overall effect is quieter and more refined than anything we've seen on a Daytona before.
It's a significant release on a technical and material level. But in terms of the broader conversation, the community was hoping for a titanium Daytona or a Panda shakeup that would send the secondary market into overdrive. This is more considered than that; a release you appreciate for what it is rather than one that rewrites the rules.
Oyster Perpetual 41mm Ref. 134303: The Centenary Piece
This is the one Rolex teased in the "Oyster Story" video ahead of the show. A 41mm Oyster Perpetual in a two-tone Rolesor configuration: Oystersteel case and bracelet, offset by an 18-carat yellow gold bezel and crown. It's the centrepiece of the 100 Years of Oyster celebration.
A new reference number (134303) suggests this isn't simply an existing OP with a gold bezel bolted on; it's a distinct configuration built for the occasion. The two-tone treatment gives the OP a weight and presence it hasn't had before, and at 41mm, it's sized to compete directly with the Datejust for wrist time.
For collectors, the appeal is the commemorative nature of the piece. Rolex almost never does anniversary editions in this way, and that rarity alone will make the 134303 desirable. For everyone else, it's a very handsome watch that happens to mark a significant milestone.
Oyster Perpetual 36 Ref. 126000: Jubilee Dial
The OP 36 receives a new jubilee dial treatment. Details are still filtering through from Geneva, but the use of "jubilee" in the context of Rolex's Oyster centenary year is clearly intentional. In a similar vein to the OP Celebration dial, this is a departure from simple or serious, and is about as busy & lively as watch faces come - notable coming from Rolex.
The OP 36 has quietly become one of the most versatile watches in Rolex's entire catalogue, and any new dial variation tends to be well received. This one will be no exception.
Day-Date 40 Ref. 228235: Jubilee Gold
Here's the genuinely new thing buried in this year's releases: a brand new precious metal alloy that Rolex is calling "Jubilee Gold."
Rolex has form for developing proprietary alloys. Everose gold (their take on rose gold, engineered to resist fading) has been a staple since 2005. Jubilee Gold is the next chapter, and it's unlike anything Rolex has done before.
The new 18-carat alloy combines properties and characteristics of yellow, white and rose gold into something that doesn't quite look like any of them. It's more matte and less obvious than yellow or Everose, warmer than white, and it shifts noticeably in colour and hue as light moves across the President bracelet, the fluted bezel and the Oyster case. The overall impression is one of quiet confidence: more pronounced grey tones with the glint of yellow and rose somewhat diminished, though still present under changing light conditions.
The Day-Date 40 is the natural home for a new gold alloy. It's Rolex's flagship dress watch, it's only available in precious metals, and it's where the brand tends to debut its most refined material innovations.
This is, quietly, the most interesting release of the year. New Rolex dial colours come and go. A new metal alloy is a generational event.
Datejust 41 Ref. 126334: Ombré Lacquer Green Dial
Move aside mint green - while green continues to be Rolex's colour of choice for moments that matter, this year, it arrives on the Datejust 41 in an ombré lacquer finish that creates a deep, resonant effect: the dial colour shifts gradually from a light green at the centre to an inky dark hue at the outer edges. Rolex technicians achieve this by applying green lacquer to the dial base, then spraying layers of black lacquer in concentric circles from the centre outward.
Rolex has been experimenting with ombré effects on Day-Date models for a couple of years now (the one that surfaced at the Oscars comes to mind), so seeing the technique migrate into the core catalogue is a natural progression. On a Datejust 41 in white Rolesor with a fluted bezel, it's going to look striking.
Oyster Perpetual in Full Solid Gold: Refs. 124205 & 276208
The Oyster Perpetual goes full precious metal in 34mm and 28mm sizes. These are sized and positioned for a market that skews toward women and those who prefer a smaller watch, but in full solid gold, they carry a very different proposition to the steel OPs that have dominated the conversation in recent years.
It's a smart move from Rolex. The OP line has been viewed primarily as an entry point into the brand, and offering it in gold repositions it as something more considered.
Yacht-Master II Returns: Refs. 126680 & 126688
The Yacht-Master II is back. Discontinued in 2024 after 17 years of production, it returns in steel (126680) and yellow gold (126688) with a new movement under the hood.
This was one of the more accurately leaked releases ahead of the show. The Yacht-Master II has always been polarising, with its oversized case and regatta countdown complication appealing to a relatively niche audience. Whether the new movement and refined execution can broaden that appeal remains to be seen. The fact that Rolex brought it back at all, though, suggests the brand sees a commercial opportunity that the secondary market wasn't pricing in.
New Dials
- Gold Leaf Motif on the Day Date 40
- Diamond-set Pink Thulite on the Day Date 36
- Diamond-set Amazonite on the Day Date 36
- Ruby-set Pink Opal on the Day Date 36
- Diamond-set Wyoming Jade on the Day Date 36
- Blue Quartz & Chrysocolla on the GMT-Master II
Departures and No-Shows
The story of what left the catalogue is almost as significant as what entered it.
The Pepsi GMT in both steel & white gold (126710BLRO & 126719BLRO) is now confirmed as discontinued. Pre-owned prices had been climbing for months, the reference had vanished from dealer catalogues, and every major watch publication had called it. But the expected replacement, a Coke bezel in red and black Cerachrom ceramic, hasn't arrived. Rolex has cleared the slot without filling it, which is an unusual move. If you own a Pepsi, its value just became a lot more interesting.
Also leaving the collection is the white gold "Cookie Monster" Submariner Date (126619LB), with its blue Cerachrom bezel and black dial. This was one of the more quietly desirable references in the Submariner range, and its departure eliminates the white gold options in the dive watch lineup. For those who passed on it at retail, the secondary market window is now the only way in.
Then there's what didn't arrive. The Coke GMT-Master II and the return of the Milgauss were the two most anticipated releases of 2026, and neither materialised. The Dynapulse movement from the Land-Dweller gave Rolex the technical justification for a thinner, lighter antimagnetic watch. The 70th anniversary provided the narrative. A coloured sapphire crystal patent had been filed. All the ingredients were there. And still, nothing.
The Land-Dweller, which debuted last year, also received no expansion: no new dial colours, no new materials, no broader range. For a collection that launched with deliberate restraint, this is surprising. Year two is usually when Rolex begins to open things up.
Whether these are coming later in the year, or whether the prediction community simply got ahead of itself, we don't know yet. But the absence of all three is the defining feature of the 2026 Rolex collection.
Trilogy's Take - Rolex
This is a consolidation year. Rolex has opted for elegance over spectacle, leaning into the Oyster centenary theme with material innovation (Jubilee Gold, enamel on the Daytona) and heritage nods (the commemorative OP, the jubilee dial) rather than the kind of headline-grabbing new collection that defined 2025.
The Daytona in Rolesium is lovely. The Jubilee Gold alloy is genuinely significant. The ombré Datejust is going to photograph beautifully. But none of these will generate the kind of frenzy that the Land-Dweller created last year, and they won't move the secondary market the way a Coke GMT or a revived Milgauss would have.
For collectors, the 2026 releases are the kind of watches you appreciate more with time. For the broader market, this is a year where the most interesting story might be what Rolex chose not to do.
We'll update this section as more hands-on coverage and pricing details come through from Geneva.
Audemars Piguet's return to Watches & Wonders is the part of this week we've been anticipating the most. AP has been absent from major trade shows for several years, choosing instead to host its own private events. But with a 150th anniversary to celebrate, the brand clearly decided it wanted a stage.
The February drop earlier this year already gave us some signals about the direction of travel. At Watches & Wonders, we're keeping our eyes on a few developments: a possible resizing of the Royal Oak Offshore to reach more women and those who prefer a slimmer watch, and a new Code 11.59 variation. Whether Audemars sticks to its preference for precious metals in the 11.59 or continues its more recent push into steel remains to be seen.
The Neo Frame Jumping Hour, released earlier in 2026, has also been generating serious conversation. We're hoping to get a closer look at it this week.
We'll update this section with confirmed releases as the week unfolds.
Patek Philippe has delivered a substantial collection this year. The Nautilus 50th anniversary has arrived, the Cubitus got the complication it deserved, the 6105G Celestial pushes the brand's astronomical watchmaking forward, and there's an automaton that will have collectors talking. Plenty to unpack here.
Nautilus 50th Anniversary:
Refs. 5810G, 5810/1G and 5610/1P
The Nautilus turns 50, and Patek has marked it by stripping the watch back to its purest form.
Three limited edition wristwatches, all time-only: hours and minutes, no seconds hand, no date. Powered by the Caliber 240 micro-rotor, itself a child of the 1970s (introduced in 1977, just one year after the Nautilus), the cases measure just 6.9mm thick. The gold micro-rotor on each is engraved "50 1976 – 2026."
The Ref. 5810/1G-001 is a 41mm white gold Nautilus on a white gold bracelet with the iconic blue horizontally embossed dial, limited to 2,000 pieces. The Ref. 5810G-001 shares the 41mm white gold case but sits on a blue composite strap and features baguette diamond hour markers, limited to 1,000 pieces. The Ref. 5610/1P-001 is a 38mm platinum version on a platinum bracelet, also limited to 2000 pieces.
There's also a Nautilus pocket watch, which is as unexpected as it sounds.
The approach is beautifully considered: rather than adding complications or inflating the case, Patek has distilled the Nautilus to its essence. No date, no seconds, no distractions. Just the porthole case, the horizontally embossed dial and the thinnest possible profile. Precious metals rather than steel, which is consistent with how Patek handled the 40th anniversary. For collectors who have been waiting for this moment, these are the pieces.
Ref. 6105G: Celestial with Sunrise and Sunset
A white gold Celestial that displays sunrise and sunset times alongside the star chart, with a summer/winter time correction mechanism built in. The Celestial has always been one of Patek's most ambitious complications, and the 6105G takes it further than any previous iteration. A remarkable piece of engineering that deserves close attention when hands-on coverage arrives.
Ref. 5840P: Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton
The Cubitus complication that many collectors were hoping for. A perpetual calendar in platinum with an openworked blue dial that reveals the skeleton movement beneath. After the time-only debut and last year's wearability tweaks, this is a meaningful step forward for the collection. A skeleton perpetual calendar in platinum is a serious proposition, and it should do a lot to shift the conversation around what the Cubitus can be.
Ref. 5249R: Automaton "The Crow and the Fox"
An automaton wristwatch in rose gold, staging an animation inspired by the fable of The Crow and the Fox, with hours and minutes displayed on demand. Patek's automaton pieces are among the rarest and most technically demanding watches the manufacture produces. These are made in tiny numbers and tend to become the centrepieces of serious collections.
Ref. 7047G: Minute Repeater
A minute repeater in white gold, designed in a modern case inspired by the Calatrava 6007. Patek describes the minute repeater as the undisputed emblem of its expertise in grand complications, and placing it in a contemporary case design signals that the manufacture isn't content to let its most prestigious complication live only in traditional dress watch formats.
Refs. 5270P: Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
The iconic 5270 perpetual calendar chronograph arrives in platinum with a choice of red, blue or charcoal grey lacquered dials, each with a black gradient rim. Three colour options on a single grand complication reference is unusually generous from Patek, and the colour palette is bolder than we've seen from the brand in some time.
Nautilus 50th Anniversary Desk Clock: Ref. 958G-001
The fourth piece in the Nautilus anniversary collection takes the porthole case off the wrist entirely. The Ref. 958G-001 is a white gold desk clock, 50.65mm across and 13.5mm thick, powered by the manually wound Calibre 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J with an 8-day power reserve. That’s 192 hours from twin barrels, with a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock.
The dial carries the full Nautilus identity: sunburst blue with the horizontally embossed pattern, baguette-cut diamond hour markers (0.96 ct) in white gold, and luminescent baton hands. The complications are practical: instantaneous date by hand, instantaneous day of the week in an aperture, and small seconds at 6. The hinged caseback bears the inscription “50th Anniversary Nautilus 1976-2026 Patek Philippe,” and its dust cover features its own sunburst blue horizontally embossed dial with a satin-brushed Calatrava cross in white gold.
Limited to 100 pieces. It’s a collector’s object as much as a timepiece, and the kind of release that only Patek would think to include alongside the anniversary wristwatches.
More Across the Collection
Beyond the headline pieces, Patek has filled out the rest of the collection with considered updates. The Ref. 5204G split-seconds chronograph perpetual calendar gets a navy blue dial. The Ref. 5236P in-line perpetual calendar returns in platinum with a silvertoned dial and black-gradient rim. The Ref. 5322G 24-hour alarm arrives in a Calatrava case with a guilloched hobnail pattern and textured green lacquered dial. The Ref. 5227G Calatrava is revisited in vintage style with a rose-gilt opaline dial.
Two annual calendars mark 30 years since Patek patented the complication: the Ref. 4946G in white gold with a blue-grey "shantung" textured dial and denim-effect calfskin strap, and the Ref. 5396R in rose gold with a sand-beige dial. Both are powered by the Caliber 26-330 S QA LU.
The Ref. 7129J World Time brings a carmine red guilloché dial in a 36mm yellow gold case with an unadorned bezel. It's a striking colour choice, and one that's drawn a lot of attention already. The Golden Ellipse returns as a duo (Refs. 5738G and 3738/100G) in olive green sunburst, and the Ladies' Calatrava (Refs. 7200/50G) arrives in ice blue and sand beige.
Trilogy's Take on Patek
A strong year from Patek. The Nautilus 50th limited editions will generate the most immediate demand, but the 6105G Celestial and the 5840P Cubitus skeleton perpetual are the pieces that will hold collectors' attention long after Geneva wraps up. The breadth of the collection, from grand complications through to the Golden Ellipse, shows a brand that came to the fair with something to say at every level of the catalogue.
We'll update this section as hands-on impressions and pricing details come through.
After last year's 270th anniversary celebrations, which included the record-breaking Les Cabinotiers Solaria (the most complicated wristwatch ever made), a jaw-dropping Overseas Grand Complication and an automaton clock displayed in the Louvre, Vacheron Constantin could have been forgiven for taking a quieter approach in 2026. Instead, the manufacture has used this year to do something arguably more interesting: focus.
The Overseas collection, which turns 30 this year, is the centrepiece. The collection has always occupied a slightly different space to the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Where those two defined the luxury sports watch category, the Overseas has been Vacheron's more versatile, travel-oriented interpretation of it, complete with interchangeable straps and a finishing standard that sits a notch above what you'd typically expect from a sports watch. In 2026, Vacheron has leaned into that identity with three Overseas releases that collectively make a strong case for the collection's relevance in the holy trinity conversation: a long-awaited production version of the Everest-inspired Dual Time, the thinnest Overseas ever made, and a new colourway for the tourbillon. Alongside these, a fresh take on one of the most distinctive dress watches in all of horology.
Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points
The headline release, and a watch with real history behind it. In 2019, Vacheron produced a one-off titanium Overseas Dual Time for adventurer and photographer Cory Richards to wear on his Everest summit attempt. That prototype inspired a 150-piece limited edition in 2021 that frustrated as many collectors as it satisfied: demand far outstripped supply, and examples now trade in the low six figures on the secondary market.
The Cardinal Points collection is the production answer. Four references, each named after a cardinal direction, with dials representing different landscapes: white for North, brown for South, green for West and blue for East. All four are housed in 41mm titanium cases with anthracite-finished bezels, crowns and pusher rings. The grained dial texture, circular satin-finished minutes track and orange dual-time hand carry through from the Everest-inspired originals.
Each watch ships with a titanium integrated bracelet and two interchangeable rubber straps (one matching the dial colour, one in orange), all swappable without tools via Vacheron's Easy-fit system. Inside is the manufacture Calibre 5110 DT/3, finished to Poinçon de Genève standards. Available exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques.
This is a thoughtful release: a production run of a watch that collectors have been asking for since 2021, executed in titanium with the kind of finishing that justifies Vacheron's position in the holy trinity.
Overseas Tourbillon
The Overseas Tourbillon returns in titanium with a deep red sunburst dial, a colour previously reserved for the ultra-thin perpetual calendar in white gold. At 42.5mm and just 10.39mm thick, it's powered by the manufacture Calibre 2160 with a peripherally driven openworked tourbillon cage. The titanium case and integrated bracelet feature satin brushing and polished bevels, and it ships with two additional rubber straps in deep red and white. Poinçon de Genève certified.
There is also a unique piece (Les Cabinotiers): a 45mm pink gold Overseas combining a minute repeater, tourbillon and skeletonised dial. One of one.
Historiques American 1921
Vacheron's asymmetric icon, originally designed for the gentleman driver with its dial offset to 45 degrees so the time could be read without taking your hand off the steering wheel, returns in a new palette. Two references in 18K pink gold (40mm and 36.5mm) feature grained silver-tone dials with blue Arabic numerals and blue 18K gold hands, paired with dark blue patinated calfskin straps with a gradient effect. Powered by the manual-winding Calibre 4400 AS with approximately 65 hours of power reserve.
Égérie Moon-Phase Spring Blossom
A new addition to Vacheron's feminine collection, with moon-phase complication. Details are still coming through from Geneva.
Trilogy's Take on Vacheron
The Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points will generate the most immediate demand, and rightly so. It's the watch collectors have been chasing since the Everest prototype, now available in a proper (if still limited) production run. The ultra-thin movement is a technical achievement worth paying attention to, and the American 1921 in silver and blue is classically handsome.
Vacheron came to Geneva with a clear point of view: refined, purposeful and quietly confident. That tracks with everything we know about the brand.
We'll update this section as more coverage arrives.
Discuss the newest watch releases with Trilogy
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Visit our Mayfair showroom or call 0203 9298227.
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