Stainless steel sports watches might have finally had their time. In the media, at least. We’re seeing modern watch collectors seek out more unique designs, heading away from the most-travelled paths to find timepieces that speak to their distinctive styles.
In 2024, more people are searching online for 90s-style watches and animal print watches, and exploring the gold watch trend. Watchmakers are responding to this need for diversity with creative designs, from textured bracelets to patterned dials.
While steel watches will forever be a classic, the conversation is steering towards riskier, dressier, golder designs.
Textured timepieces
Watchmakers are swapping sleek steel for textured timepieces, namely by bringing new patterns and engravings to dials.
Inspired by the sensory experience of getting dressed (velvets, silks, crochet and knitwear), we’re seeing a new layer of depth in the watch world.
“Collectors have grown bored of stainless-steel sports watches — there is the underlying desire to show individualism. [Textured dials] draw in a younger crowd who like jewellery-style pieces that their friends may not own or have ever seen.”
Grand Seiko ‘Genbi Valley’ Hi-Beat Limited Edition
Newly available in June 2024, this Grand Seiko piece was handcrafted in Japan by Takumi artisans, but it ticks many of the watch trend boxes here in the UK.
It features a new dial design influenced by the colours of the Genbi Valley landscape, one of Japan’s natural monuments. Its gleaming dial evokes the texture of the foliage along the Iwai River, and light plays with shadow in eye-opening ways.
La D de Dior Archi Dior
Dior puts its own spin on the jewellery trend of the moment, where we’re seeing the likes of Van Cleef & Arpels master precious materials and floral designs.
Dior takes a jewellery approach to watchmaking in this timepiece, transforming materials such as gold and onyx into a fabric-like texture. A delicate embellishment of diamonds completes this lace-like, dazzling dial.
OMEGA Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon
OMEGA has crafted a tribute to the 1968 Apollo mission, on which every member of the crew wore an OMEGA Speedmaster.
The Dark Side of the Moon shows a rugged take on texture. It features an openwork dial and a movement that depicts the lunar surface. The watchmakers at OMEGA used laser engraving and contrasting on the surfaces here, for a definition that’s “more pronounced than ever before”.
Jewellery watches
Bangles, ovals, gems and pearls. A significant selection of trending watches, for women especially, are jewellery-inspired. The latest obsession is delicate, beautiful designs made for cocktail parties.
Bulgari Serpenti Secret Watch
The wrap-around watch from Bulgari’s Serpenti collection this time comes with a twist: The dial is concealed within the serpent’s mouth.
This watch contains one of the smallest mechanical movements to date, combining spectacular craftsmanship with decorative excellence. The 18 ct serpent is laced with diamonds and other precious gemstones.
Indomptables de Cartier Watch
The reptile theme continues.
Cartier launched its crocodile motif watch as part of its animal collection. With an 18 ct gold case and 128 brilliant-cut diamonds, it merges luxury with playfulness in a way that’s rarely seen.
The downsizing watch trend
Genderless watches have led the conversation for the last few years. It now goes without saying that people can wear whatever watch they like; we’re no longer bound by the constructions of gender.
So we’ll only lightly brush on the topic.
Small and extremely thin watches are trending for both men and women, with Audemars Piguet and Cartier famously playing with proportions.
Audemars Piguet Mini Royal Oak
One of AP’s 2024 releases is the Mini Royal Oak. This is shimmer, sporty and glam all rolled into one 23mm diameter timepiece.
And although smaller watches are trending for women, we anticipate trendy men jumping on this one, too.
This watch contains one of the smallest mechanical movements to date, combining spectacular craftsmanship with decorative excellence. The 18 ct serpent is laced with diamonds and other precious gemstones.
Cartier Mini Tank
Spotted on the wrist of Austin Butler, the Cartier Mini Tank makes a case for fluid watches that look just as good on men as on women.
Younger, fashion-forward collectors are influencing the market, with celebrities and social media supersizing trends. Hence: the downsize trend of right now.
That said, we think the Mini Tank (and small watches in general) are here to stay. Its chicness means it doesn’t give the impression that it’s following a fad, with dimensions that make it feel distinctly classic.
Precious metals
The high end of the consumer spectrum is resilient even in a world of inflation and bulging interest rates.
In other words, ultra-luxury prevails and we’re seeing many watch trends in 2024 that feature precious metals. Just last year, a limited-edition platinum version of Cartier’s Tank Normale sold within an hour, going for €60,000.
“We are seeing a growing interest in more precious models, in gold, jewellery watches or with complications.” - Cyrille Vigneron, president and CEO at Cartier. “For the Panthère collection, the strongest demand at the moment is for gold, rather than steel.”
Vacheron Constantin Overseas
At Watches & Wonders 2024, Vacheron Constantin introduced four new references for the Overseas range. For a watch with origins in travel and adventure, it’s certainly had a glow-up that mirrors current trends.
The iterations come in 18-carat pink gold with deep green dials. It takes the watch from understated to luxurious, but that chic, sporty outline remains.
Fabric straps
Some of the best trending watches for men with a laid-back edge come with a fabric strap. Practical, comfortable on the wrist and wearable anywhere, in-demand fabric strap watches are a throwback to the original wristwatches worn by soldiers in WW1.
Breitling Avenger B01 Chronograph 44 Red Arrows
It’s 2024, which means Breitling celebrates 140 years as a brand chosen by adventurers and sportspeople. For 34 years, Breitling has been aligned with Britain’s Royal Air Force team, the Red Arrows.
In a move that surprised no one, it has released a limited edition Avenger Red Arrows timepiece, complete with a fabric strap made from calfskin leather.
IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun SFTI
In a continuation of the pilot theme, IWC Schaffhausen sits at the intersection of dressed-down and refined. Its khaki green fabric strap looks humble, but is hard-wearing and ready for anything.
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/60G
Patek Philippe’s incredible Nautilus needs no introduction. Sporting a white gold case & denim-patterned calfskin strap - this sports-line Patek combines the ultimate in luxury materials with a casual-wear strap.
Ceramic creations
The traditional luxury watch market favours weightiness. This year, however, there’s a shifting trend towards light, durable ceramic.
We can credit Chanel for putting ceramic in the spotlight in 1999 with its J-12 watch in glossy ceramic. Before then, the material mostly skirted along the edges of the industry. In 2024, it’s back, with watchmakers experimenting with the innovative material to come up with new and improved versions.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
The blue ceramic Royal Oak feels more grown-up than you might expect. Its playful shade catches the eye of even the most devoted steel watch wearer - perfect to bring some colour into your day-to-day.
Bell & Ross BR 05 Black Ceramic
A 41mm ceramic case encloses this sporty piece. Bell & Ross chose the technical material for its robustness: It’s resistant to corrosion and scratches, and is harder but more lightweight than steel.
A timeless watch from a watchmaker we think is a key influence in the ceramics trend.
Disruptive shapes
There was a time when even square or rectangular watches were viewed as a bit daring. We can largely thank Cartier for paving the way for square wristwatches, with its timeless Santos De Cartier. Over the last couple of decades, the likes of Bell & Ross have experimented with angles.
In 2024, though, any shape norms we’re used to are being thrown out of the window. As watch fans are increasingly seeking timepieces they won’t see anyone else wearing, watchmakers are feeding the demand with funky-shaped watches.
Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami
Hublot partnered with Japanese artist Takashi Murakami to bring us an unconventional shape that feels cool and futuristic.
The MP-15 Takashi Murakami is an interpretation of the visual effe twects of sapphire. Hublot has swapped traditional dials and instead has fused the case, movement and dial in one unexpected arrangement. There are only 50 pieces available.
Cartier Crash Skeleton
The Cartier Crash Skeleton was first brought to life in 1967, but it’s still one of the world’s most collectable watches today. And, with the renaissance of unusual shapes, this one deserved a mention.
The idea for the distorted case design was sparked when a watch damaged in a car crash was brought to Cartier. So the story goes, anyway. Its distinctive design and bold dimensions make this a consistently in-demand classic.
Let’s talk more about watch trends of 2024
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