The oldest watchmaker in continuous production, Vacheron Constantin has had ample time to fall victim to counterfeiting.
And that’s exactly what has happened.
Replicas of chronographs from the Swiss brand have appeared over the years. As copycats grow more skilled and fakes get more realistic, collectors have to be on high alert before buying a watch. In response to the black market, this time-honoured brand has resorted to contemporary measures. Read on to learn about Digital Passports and how to authenticate a Vacheron Constantin just by looking at it.
Checking your Vacheron serial number
Every genuine Vacheron Constantin is marked by a unique serial number.
On their surface, they simply look like a stamp of random numbers and letters. In reality, they’re proof that you hold exceptional craftsmanship and centuries of watchmaking expertise in your hand. So when it comes to serial numbers, here’s how you can find them, check them and verify them.
STEP 1
Where is the Vacheron serial number?
You’ll usually find the serial number etched into your watch’s caseback.
If it’s not there, don’t immediately write off the watch as a fake. Sometimes, you just need to look harder. The serial numbers are often found between the lugs on older models - you might need to remove the strap or bracelet to get a proper look.
Every now and again, the serial number is inside the case. Don’t attempt to open the case to find out, though. It’s best to contact a professional watchmaker.
STEP 2
How to check your Vacheron’s authenticity with the serial number
Located your watch’s serial number? Perfect. The next step is to confirm its authenticity.
It’s worth checking the original paperwork and warranty card (if you have it). This provides a great reference point as you can make sure the documents match the number on the timepiece itself.
If you’re short on documentation, the brand offers services to help you check the authenticity of your Vacheron. Book an appointment directly with the watchmaker to authenticate the watch.
Alternatively, bring it to us at Trilogy Jewellers in Hatton Garden and our knowledgeable team can authenticate your Vacheron Constantin for you.
STEP 3
Model number vs serial number
Authenticating a Vacheron seems straightforward until you realise you’re up against more than one chain of numbers: The model number and the serial number.
As we’ve mentioned, the serial number is completely unique to the individual watch. You’ll never find two of the same serial numbers, even if you hold two watches of the same model.
So, the model number (or reference number) indicates the collection the watch belongs to. You might find the first four or five digits engraved on the caseback, and the full model number should live on the warranty card.
It’s easy to find the model number. A simple online search should do it. The serial number, however, can be more discrete - but you’ll need it if you ever want to sell the watch in future.
Vacheron authentication: The visual checks
Before you buy a second-hand Vacheron, or if you want to authenticate a watch you already own, carry out these visual checks.
- The dial: All printing should be impeccable. Look out for any blurred, smudged or misaligned inscriptions (including the brand name and logo). Anything less than perfect is a red flag.
- The hands: Again, the hands on a genuine Vacheron are crafted with absolute precision. Movement should be smooth, precise and silent.
- The date window: Peek through the date window and make sure the numbers are perfectly centred. The font should match the rest of the dial and there should be no lag in the date change.
- The finish: Crafted by hands that have mastered the art of watchmaking, every Vacheron watch is perfected down to the finest detail. Expect only the finest materials - gold, platinum or stainless steel - and no rough edges or imperfections. Substandard materials and finishing signify a counterfeit.
- The weight: Quality materials are heavy. An unusually light timepiece is likely to be a fake.
- The crown: The crown on a genuine Vacheron usually features the logo and always works smoothly. Look out for crowns that are stiff or loose, or those with a poorly engraved logo. If any of those things ring true, the watch is likely a fake.
- The movement: Real Vacheron Constantin watches are powered by exceptional movements. You can see this for yourself in watches with transparent casebacks. Notice how the movement is finished and engraved, and the level of detail that goes into it.
All-important Vacheron documentation
The paperwork to back up your Vacheron watch.
Certificate of Authenticity
Vacheron Constantin timepieces come with a Certificate of Authenticity. This covers the year of manufacture and a technical and aesthetic description of the watch.
It’s also confirmation that the watch was created by the experts at Vacheron Constantin, and not by skilled counterfeiters.
You can request a Certificate of Authentication by taking your watch to a Vacheron boutique. They’ll be able to examine it for you, confirm it’s real, and issue a new certificate.
Extract from the Archives
From the oldest antiques to modern-day creations, Vacheron Constantin records all the necessary information about its timepiece collection.
Like a museum or library for some of the world’s finest watches, you can request an extract from the archives to discover more about the watch in your hand. When was it created? What type of calibre does it run on?
Whatever information was recorded by past generations, you can find out by visiting a Vacheron boutique.
Document for insurance purposes
It’s not as romantic or exciting as the other documentation, but a document for insurance purposes shouldn’t be overlooked.
As the market moves, it pays to keep a hold on the value of your Vacheron. The brand’s team can appraise your watch and provide the most current retail list price. So, if it’s ever lost or stolen, or you want to sell your Vacheron, you’ll know exactly what it’s worth.
Quick ways to spot a fake Vacheron Constantin
Over the years, counterfeiters have honed their skills. Today, some creations are so convincing that it’s hard to distinguish them from the real thing.
Keep an eye out for the following dead giveaways to be sure you don’t fall victim to the scammers.
1. Poor quality and craftsmanship
Look out for inferior materials, poor finishing, messy engraving and lightweight watches. Attention to detail is everything at Vacheron Constantin; imperfections would never slip through the cracks.
2. The deal seems too good to be true
Luxury watches are an investment. It’s rare to find something priced far below market value.
Before you buy a watch, do some research. Resist the urge to snap up a “great deal” and determine whether the price tag properly reflects the market first. If it seems too good to be true…
3. Online marketplaces that don’t specialise in watches
Avoid using online marketplaces (like eBay, Etsy and Facebook Marketplace) to buy a Vacheron or any Swiss watch. There’s usually no way to pre-qualify the watch and once it arrives in the post, you might be stuck with it. Chrono24 & Watchfinder have authentication checks they perform before a watch is listed, whereas the non-watch specific marketplaces have no checks in place.
Beat the counterfeit market: Buy a Vacheron with confidence
Don’t let the counterfeit market muddy your portfolio.
When buying a new or second-hand Vacheron Constantin, talk to a jeweller you can trust, like Trilogy. Browse our range of timepieces or ask about our same-day sourcing service, knowing we only ever sell authentic watches approved by our team.
We’re happy to authenticate your Vacheron, too. If you already own a Vacheron Constantin, or are in talks about buying a specific piece, bring it to us for a professional examination.
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